Autopapyrus · Hyundai Accent 1.5 CRDi VGT (2007)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/hyundai/accent/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Hyundai Accent 1.5 CRDi VGT (2007): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

On the 1.5 VGT diesel, change the oil and filter every 10,000-15,000 km or once a year. Diesel oil gets contaminated with soot faster, so do not stretch the interval. It is best to drain the oil with the engine warm.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-60 minutes Steps: 13

Parts

№	Part	Alternatives
01	Diesel engine oil, ACEA B4 or C3about 5-5.5 L (5.3-5.8 qt) per change with filter
02	Oil filter for 1.5 CRDi diesel (spin-on or replaceable element with sealing rings)	Mann, Bosch, Filtron, Knecht
03	Drain plug sealing ringnew

Tools

Drain plug wrench (usually 17 or 19 mm, check against your plug)
oil filter wrench (strap or cup type, depending on the filter)
torque wrench
6-7 L (6.3-7.4 qt) drain pan
funnel
shop rags
inspection pit
car ramps or a jack with jack stands

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Chilton and 5 more. See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps

Warm the engine up to operating temperature, park the car on a level surface, a pit or ramps, shut off the engine, and set the parking brake. Wait 5-10 minutes so some of the oil can drain back into the oil pan.
Open the hood and unscrew the oil filler cap, which speeds up draining. If there is an engine undershield, remove it.
Place the drain pan under the oil pan drain plug and carefully unscrew the plug. The oil is hot, so protect your hands.
Let the oil drain for 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, locate the oil filter and place a pan or rags under it.
Remove the old filter. A spin-on filter is removed with a filter wrench by turning it counterclockwise. For a filter with a replaceable element, unscrew the housing cap and pull out the element, and replace the rings along with it.
Wipe the mounting surface or the housing. Make sure the old sealing ring has not stayed behind.
Lubricate the rubber seal of the new filter with fresh oil. For a spin-on filter, you can fill it about 2/3 full of oil to shorten the period of oil starvation at startup.
Screw the spin-on filter on by hand until the seal makes contact, then tighten it about 3/4 of a turn further, without a wrench. Tighten the housing cap with a replaceable element using a torque wrench, to the manufacturer's specified torque, usually in the range of 20-25 N·m (15-18 lb-ft).
Clean the plug and the oil pan, install the new gasket, and tighten the drain plug to about 35-45 N·m (26-33 lb-ft) (check the exact value in the manufacturer's specifications). Do not overtighten: the oil pan is thin and you can strip the threads.
Pour in about 4.5 L (4.8 qt) of oil through the funnel, wait a couple of minutes, and check the level with the dipstick. Top up to the mark between MIN (L) and MAX (F); the difference between the marks is about 1 L (1.06 qt). Do not overfill.
Close the oil filler cap. Start the engine and run it for 1-2 minutes. The oil pressure light should go out within a few seconds after startup.
Shut off the engine and inspect the filter and drain plug for leaks. After 5-10 minutes, recheck the level with the dipstick and top up if necessary.
Reinstall the engine undershield if you removed it. Take the used oil to a collection point; do not pour it on the ground.

Common mistakes and warnings

The capacity and exact filter design depend on the engine version, so go by the dipstick marks, not just the capacity in the owner's manual
Do not use gasoline engine oil without approval for diesels
If the car is equipped with a diesel particulate filter, you need oil with low SAPS approval (ACEA C3)
Be careful when working under the car: do not get under it until it is supported on stands, and never rely on a jack alone