Autopapyrus · Lada Granta 8-Valve (2019)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/granta/fuel-filter-replacement-2019/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/granta/fuel-filter-replacement-2019/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Lada Granta 8-Valve (2019): Fuel Filter Replacement
On the Granta, the fuel filter is external rather than inside the fuel tank. It is located under the floor on the right side of the fuel tank, so the work is done from underneath. The factory schedule calls for replacement roughly every 30,000 km. The fuel line is under pressure, so the key points of the job are relieving the pressure and eliminating sparks and open flames.
Key figures
- Filter replacement intervala guideline based on the factory schedule for when to plan a replacement (see the summary)about 30,000 km
Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.
Diagram: where the fuel filter sits under the floor and how it is mounted
Tap to enlarge
- 1Fuel filter: metal cylinder with two fittings, under the floor to the right of the tank. The arrow on the body points from tank to engine; install the new one the same way.
- 2Clamp strap: metal band with tabs that holds the filter to the body. Loosen it and remove the old filter.
- 3Left fitting with latch and tube on it. Press the latch, pull the tube gently and wiggle it, no jerking.
- 4Right fitting with latch and tube. Remove the same way. Push new tubes on until they click and tug by hand.
- 5Fuel tank: large ribbed surface under the filter. A landmark for finding the filter from below.
Parts
2| № | Part | Alternatives |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Fine fuel filter for fuel-injected VAZ engines (Lada Granta, 8-valve engine), same fittings and mounting1 pc | AlternativesBoschMannFiltronSAKURA |
| 02 | Fuel filter fitting retainers or ringsif needed |
Tools
8- Inspection pit, ramp, or lift
- jack and jack stands
- socket and wrench set
- flat-head screwdriver
- shop rags
- container for gasoline
- gloves and safety glasses
- fire extinguisher nearby
Step by step
12 steps- Park the car on a level surface, over a pit, or on a ramp, apply the parking brake, and chock the wheels. It is best to work with a low amount of fuel in the tank. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby, and make sure there are no flames or sparks near the work area.
- Relieve the pressure in the fuel line. Unplug the fuel pump connector or pull the fuel pump relay from the fuse box (in the cabin or under the hood), then start the engine and let it stall. Crank the engine with the starter for 2-3 seconds to confirm the pressure has dropped. Then disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Locate the filter under the floor on the right side of the fuel tank. It looks like a metal cylinder with two fittings and is secured to the body with a clamp bracket. Inspect the area and clean off any dirt if necessary so it doesn't get into the fuel line.
- Lay down rags and place a container under the filter: a small amount of gasoline will drain from the filter and hoses.
- Memorize or photograph the flow direction. There is an arrow on the filter housing pointing from the tank toward the engine. Install the new filter with the arrow pointing the same way.
- Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines from the filter fittings. Check the connection type (quick-release clips or hose clamps) on your car. For quick-release connections, press the retainers or push in the clips, pull the line gently, and wiggle it carefully. Do not use force and do not damage the plastic parts. For hose clamps, loosen the clamp with a screwdriver or wrench. The exact procedure for this model is not documented in publicly available service materials, so follow this principle: remove everything without jerking and without tools that could damage the lines.
- Loosen the filter's mounting clamp bracket and remove the old filter. Drain any remaining gasoline into the container, and dispose of the filter itself as used petroleum waste.
- Install the new filter in the bracket, observing the arrow direction. Tighten the clamp with moderate force: the filter should be held firmly, but the housing must not be deformed. Use the tightening torque specified by the manufacturer.
- Push the lines onto the fittings until you hear a distinct click (for quick-release connections), or install and tighten the clamps. Pull on each line by hand to confirm it is secure. If the sealing rings or retainers are damaged, replace them.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal and reinstall the fuel pump connector or relay. Turn the ignition on and off several times (2-3 seconds each) so the pump builds pressure in the fuel line.
- With the ignition on, inspect both fittings for leaks. Then start the engine, let it run, and check the connections again for the smell of gasoline or wet traces. If there is a leak, shut off the engine immediately and reinstall the connection.
- Take a test drive, then inspect the filter and fittings again from underneath.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Gasoline and its vapors are highly flammable
- Work only in a well-ventilated area, with no smoking, open flames, or sparks, and do not use portable lamps with an exposed heating element
- If you have no experience working on fuel systems or have doubts about the tightness of the connections, take the car to a repair shop: a gasoline leak under the vehicle is dangerous
- The tightening torques and exact sizes of the mounting clamps are not confirmed by publicly available materials, so check them against the manufacturer's specifications