Autopapyrus · Mercedes-Benz E-Class 1.8 Kompressor M271 (2011)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mercedes-benz/e-class/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/mercedes-benz/e-class/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Mercedes-Benz E-Class 1.8 Kompressor M271 (2011): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change
The M271 uses a paper cartridge-type oil filter in a plastic housing at the top front of the engine. It is best to change the oil with the engine warm. Follow the service indicator for the interval, but change the oil at least once a year or every 10,000-15,000 km (6,000-9,000 mi). Replace the filter element at every oil change.
Parts
3| № | Part |
|---|---|
| 01 | Engine oil, MB 229.5 approvalabout 6 L (6.3 qt) |
| 02 | Oil filter element (cartridge type) for M271, with sealing rings |
| 03 | Drain plug sealing ringnew |
Tools
8- Wrench or socket for the drain plug
- 36 mm socket for the oil filter cap
- torque wrench
- drain pan of 8 L (8.5 qt) or larger
- funnel
- shop rags
- lift or inspection pit
- Torx sockets for the engine undershield
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 9 more.
See manuals →
Step by step
12 steps- Warm the engine to operating temperature by running it for 5-10 minutes, then switch it off. Park the car level on a lift or over a pit. Hot oil can cause burns, so wear gloves.
- Open the hood and remove the upper decorative engine cover. Locate the oil filter housing cap (36 mm socket) and unscrew the oil filler cap so the oil drains more easily.
- Remove the lower engine undershield. It is held by Torx screws, and the number of screws depends on the trim level.
- Place the drain pan under the engine and unscrew the oil pan drain plug. Let the oil drain for 10-15 minutes.
- While the oil drains, place rags under the filter housing and unscrew its cap counterclockwise. Pull out the cap together with the filter element; the oil in the housing will drain back into the engine.
- Remove the old element from the cap and replace the cap sealing rings (usually supplied with the filter). Lubricate the new rings with fresh oil and install the new element.
- Insert the cap with the element into the housing and tighten it with a torque wrench. Tightening torque is about 25 N·m (18 lb-ft). Do not overtighten: the housing is plastic.
- Wipe the drain hole and the plug, and replace the plug sealing ring. Tighten the plug to approximately 25 N·m (18 lb-ft).
- Pour about 5.5-6 L (5.8-6.3 qt) of oil through the filler neck. Do not add it all at once: first add about 5 L (5.3 qt), then adjust by the level on the dipstick.
- Close the filler neck and run the engine for 30-60 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out immediately after startup. Check for leaks at the filter and drain plug.
- Switch off the engine, wait 5 minutes, and check the level with the dipstick. Top it up to the MAX mark, not higher. Install the undershield and the decorative cover.
- Reset the service indicator through the on-board computer: use the steering wheel menu, go to "Service", then "ASSYST PLUS" and reset the counter. If the option is not available, reset it following the procedure for your specific trim level.
Common mistakes and warnings
- MB 229.5 approval (or newer) is mandatory: other oil will accelerate wear of the timing chain and the variable valve timing system
- Do not fill oil above the MAX mark, because the excess will foam and may get into the crankcase ventilation system
- Take used oil to a collection point
- If you have no experience working under a car, leave the job to a repair shop: a car on a jack without safety stands is a risk to life