Autopapyrus · Renault Twingo 1.2 16V D4F (2008)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/renault/twingo/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/

Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Renault Twingo 1.2 16V D4F (2008): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

On the Twingo II with the 1.2 16V (D4F) engine, change the oil and filter once a year or every 10,000-15,000 km. For mostly city driving, stay closer to 10,000 km. The filter is a spin-on type, and both it and the oil pan are accessed from below. Do the job with the engine warm, but not hot.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 40-60 minutes Steps: 14

Parts

№	Part	Alternatives
01	Engine oil, synthetic/semi-synthetic, Renault RN0700 approvalabout 3.3 L (3.5 qt) with filter
02	Spin-on oil filter for engine	Mann, Bosch, Filtron
03	Drain plug sealing washer

Tools

Drain plug wrench (hex or socket, check the size on the plug itself)
oil filter wrench (strap or cup type)
drain pan of 5 L (5.3 qt) or larger
funnel
torque wrench
rags
gloves
jack with jack stands or car ramps

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 2 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps

Warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes so the oil thins out, then shut it off. Park the car on level ground and set the parking brake.
Safely raise the front of the car (ramps, or a jack with solid stands under the sill jacking points or the subframe). Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
If an engine undercover (skid plate) is fitted, remove it. Locate the drain plug on the oil pan.
Place the drain pan under the plug, remove the plug, and let the oil drain completely, about 10 minutes. The oil and parts are hot, so protect your hands.
While the oil drains, locate the oil filter on the front side of the engine block. Position the pan and rags, then unscrew the filter counterclockwise with the filter wrench. Some oil stays inside the filter, so keep it opening-up.
Wipe the mounting surface on the block. Make sure the old sealing ring has not stayed behind on the block.
Lubricate the rubber ring of the new filter with a thin layer of fresh oil. To make starting easier, you can pour a little oil into the filter if it sits upright.
Screw the filter on by hand until the ring touches the mounting surface, then tighten it about 3/4 of a turn further (follow the instructions printed on the filter body). Do not overtighten it with a tool.
Clean the threads and the plug seat. Replace the sealing washer with a new one. Install the plug and tighten it to about 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft); check the exact value against the manufacturer's specification. Do not overtighten: the pan is aluminum or thin-walled, and the threads strip easily.
Lower the car onto level ground. Open the oil filler cap and pour in about 3 L (3.2 qt) of oil. Wait a minute, then check the level with the dipstick.
Top up to the MAX mark on the dipstick. The total capacity with the filter is approximately 3.3 L (3.5 qt), but go by the dipstick, not the number.
Close the filler cap. Start the engine and let it run for 30-60 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out within 1-2 seconds after starting.
Shut off the engine and check the filter and drain plug for leaks. After 3-5 minutes, check the level on the dipstick and top up to MAX if needed.
Reset the service interval indicator if the instrument cluster has one (the procedure is in the owner's manual). Take the used oil to a collection point for waste oil. Do not pour it on the ground.

Common mistakes and warnings

Do not overfill the oil above MAX: the excess foams, hurts engine performance, and causes leaks at the seals
Do not use oil without RN0700 approval or another suitable approval for gasoline engines
If the plug has stripped the threads in the oil pan, or the filter will not come off, do not use force
Take the car to a repair shop