← Vista
Autopapyrus · Toyota Vista 1.8 4S-Fi (1990)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/vista/engine-oil-and-oil-filter-change/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Vista 1.8 4S-Fi (1990): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

The 4S-Fi engine is a 1.8 L with single-point (throttle body) fuel injection. Change the oil and filter every 5,000-7,000 km on a warm engine. The filter is a spin-on type located at the front of the cylinder block, accessed from below. The procedure is standard and straightforward.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-40 minutes Steps: 14

Parts

3
№PartGenuine part no.
01 Engine oil (API SL/SM, conventional or semi-synthetic)about 3.5-4 L (3.7-4.2 qt); 10W-40 is also suitable for a worn engine
02 Spin-on oil filter for Toyota S-series engines, 4S 90915-10001
90915-03001
03 Drain plug gasket (washer)if the old one is crushed

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

8
  • Inspection pit, drive-on ramps or a lift
  • drain plug wrench (usually 14 mm, check against your plug)
  • oil filter wrench (strap or cup type)
  • torque wrench
  • drain pan of 5 L (5.3 qt) or larger for used oil
  • funnel
  • rags
  • gloves

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Warm up the engine for 5-10 minutes to normal operating temperature: hot oil drains better and carries away more suspended contaminants. Shut off the engine and wait 3-5 minutes.
  2. Park the car level over the pit or on the ramps and set the parking brake. If fitted, remove the engine undercover (skid plate) if necessary.
  3. Open the oil filler cap on the valve cover and pull out the dipstick. This speeds up draining.
  4. Place the drain pan under the oil pan and remove the drain plug. Hold the plug in place until the last turn so you don't get burned by hot oil. Let the oil drain for 10-15 minutes.
  5. Inspect the plug and washer. Replace a crushed or damaged washer. Wipe the sealing surface on the oil pan.
  6. Install the drain plug. Tightening torque is approximately 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft). Do not overtighten: the threads in an aluminum oil pan strip easily.
  7. Move the drain pan under the filter and unscrew the filter counterclockwise with the filter wrench. The oil remaining in the filter will spill out, so keep the filter open end up.
  8. Wipe the mounting surface on the block and make sure the old gasket has not stuck to it.
  9. Fill the new filter one-third full with fresh oil if it will sit upright. Lubricate the rubber gasket with a thin film of oil.
  10. Spin the filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten another 3/4 turn (or as specified on the packaging). Do not tighten it with the filter wrench.
  11. Pour about 3.0-3.3 L (3.2-3.5 qt) of oil through the filler opening, wait a minute and check the level with the dipstick. Add oil in small amounts up to the "F" mark. The total capacity including the filter is usually about 3.3-3.6 L (3.5-3.8 qt).
  12. Close the filler cap and run the engine for 30-60 seconds. The oil pressure light should go out 1-2 seconds after startup.
  13. Shut off the engine and check the filter and drain plug for leaks. After 3-5 minutes, recheck the level with the dipstick and top up if needed.
  14. Take the used oil and filter to a recycling collection point. Do not pour it down a drain or onto the ground.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not install two gaskets on the filter: the old one may stay on the block and cause a severe leak
  • Do not fill oil above the "F" mark: excess oil foams and pushes oil out past the seals
  • On an engine more than 30 years old the seals may leak, so be sure to check for leaks after the oil change