Autopapyrus · Volkswagen Tiguan (1st generation)
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Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Volkswagen Tiguan (1st generation): Replacing Both Front Drive Shafts as a Pair

The front drive shafts on the 1st-generation Tiguan transmit torque from the transmission to the wheel hubs. Signs of wear: clicking on turns, vibration under acceleration, knocking when pulling away, and torn boots with leaking grease. Replacing both shafts is done the same way on each side. The job is difficult because of the tight hub nut and the possible loss of transmission fluid.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-5 hours for both shafts Steps: 15 Tools: Lift or floor jack with jack stands, sockets and wrenches for the hub nut and ball joint fasteners, internal multi-point socket (triple square or splined) for the shaft flange bolts, torque wrench, long breaker bar with extension, ball joint separator or pry bar, plastic drift or soft-faced hammer, plugs or a drain pan for transmission fluid, zip ties or straps to support components

Part

🔩 Front left and right drive shaft assemblies (separate items, as they differ in length and design), new hub nut or bolt (single-use), new bolts securing the shaft to the transmission flange (single-use), new circlips and boots as required for your version, transmission fluid if needed. Exact part numbers depend on the transmission and drivetrain (front-wheel drive or 4Motion), so match your shaft to the old one by physical comparison

There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

15 steps

Park the car on a level surface, set the parking brake (if you are lifting the front and working there), and chock the rear wheels. Before lifting, while the wheel is still on the ground, loosen the wheel bolts and remove the decorative cap or cover from the shaft's hub nut.
Remove the cotter pin or retainer (if fitted) and loosen the shaft nut or bolt in the hub while the wheel is loaded. The breakaway torque is high, so use a long breaker bar. Do not hammer on the shaft, and do not use an impact wrench on a badly worn joint.
Raise the front of the car and remove the wheels. Remove the underbody shield if it blocks access to the shafts and transmission.
Prepare a drain pan: a small amount of transmission fluid may leak out when the shaft is pulled from the transmission. Plug the opening or cover it with a clean cloth.
Disconnect the lower control arm from the steering knuckle: remove the ball joint bolts (either a clamp bolt, or a nut and bolts, depending on the suspension version). Ball joint bolts and clamp bolts are generally single-use, so replace them with new ones.
Swing the steering knuckle outward and pull the outer joint of the shaft out of the hub. If the splines are stuck, pry with a puller or tap lightly on the end of the shaft through a soft drift, with the nut threaded on to protect the threads.
Remove the bolts securing the inner joint of the shaft to the transmission flange (multi-point, usually 6 bolts). Support the shaft so it does not hang from the inner joint: bending it beyond the allowable angle will damage the joint.
Remove the shaft assembly. On many versions, the right shaft may have an intermediate support bearing (intermediate shaft). It usually does not need to be removed unless the intermediate shaft itself is being replaced.
Compare the new shaft with the old one (length, spline count, flange type). Clean the mating surfaces of the transmission flange and hub, and apply a thin layer of grease to the splines only if the shaft manufacturer specifies it.
Install the new shaft: secure the inner flange with new bolts, then insert the outer end into the hub.
Reassemble the ball joint with new bolts and tighten with a torque wrench to the manufacturer's specification (the torque and angle-turn for this suspension are given in the service manual; do not tighten by feel).
Tighten the new hub nut or shaft bolt: this is done in two stages (torque plus an additional angle turn), with the wheel lowered to the ground. The torque value for these joints is high, around 150-250 N·m (111-184 lb-ft) plus an angle turn; take the exact figures from the manufacturer's service manual for your version.
Repeat the job on the other side. Install the underbody shield and wheels, and tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern.
Check the transmission fluid level and top it up to the correct level if any was lost. Take a test drive: check for vibration, clicking on turns, and fluid leaks at the flanges.
After 50-100 km (30-60 miles) of driving, recheck the wheel bolt torque and make sure there are no fluid leaks.

Common mistakes and warnings

This job affects safety: an under-tightened hub nut or ball joint can lead to loss of control. Replace any fastener marked as single-use (hub nut or bolt, ball joint bolts, shaft flange bolts) only with a new one. If you have no experience with suspension work and torque tools, have a repair shop do the tightening and assembly. Do not roll the car with a shaft disconnected and the wheel unsupported at the hub: the wheel bearing can be damaged.