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Volkswagen Tiguan 1.4 TSI CZEA 150 hp (2018): Timing Belt Replacement

The 1.4 TSI CZEA engine from the EA211 family uses a timing belt that must be replaced every 120,000 km. The job is technically difficult and requires special tools to lock the crankshaft and camshafts. All camshaft pulley bolts are single-use and must be replaced. Replacing the water pump and thermostat at the same time is recommended.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 3-4 hours Steps: 23 Tools: special crankshaft locking tool, camshaft locking tool, pulley counter-holders, socket and wrench set (Torx, 10-19 mm box-end), torque wrench, jack and jack stands, coolant drain pan (2-3 L (0.5-0.8 gal))

Part

  • 🔩 Timing belt kit with idler pulleys and water pump (HEPU PK06870, DAYCO KTBWP8190, FEBI BILSTEIN 193880 or equivalents). The kit usually includes: timing belt (163 teeth), tensioner pulley, idler pulley, water pump, thermostat. You will also need new single-use camshaft pulley bolts and Loctite 243 threadlocker. Replacement interval: 120,000 km (75,000 mi) or 4 years
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online) and 1 more. See manuals →

Step by step

23 steps
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and let the engine cool down completely (at least 2 hours).
  2. Raise the front of the car with a jack, support it on jack stands, and remove the front right wheel.
  3. Remove the engine undercover and the right-side engine compartment fender liner to get access to the timing belt from below.
  4. Drain the coolant from the system (unscrew the drain plug on the lower radiator hose) and collect it in a clean container so it can be reused.
  5. Remove the engine cover (snap-on), and disconnect the air duct between the air filter housing and the intake manifold.
  6. Remove the upper timing belt cover (several Torx T25-T30 bolts around the perimeter), then the middle and lower parts of the cover.
  7. Turn the crankshaft clockwise (viewed from the belt side) until the No. 1 cylinder piston is at top dead center (TDC). The marks on the camshaft pulleys must line up with the marks on the cylinder head cover, and the mark on the crankshaft pulley must line up with the mark on the cylinder block.
  8. Install the crankshaft locking tool into the special hole in the flywheel through the opening in the clutch housing (access from below or from the side). Make sure the crankshaft is securely locked.
  9. Install the camshaft locking bar into the slots at the ends of the camshafts (access through the valve cover). The bar locks both camshafts at the same time.
  10. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley by turning its eccentric counterclockwise with a special wrench. Remove the old timing belt, noting the direction of rotation (usually shown by an arrow on the belt).
  11. Unbolt the tensioner and idler pulleys and remove them. Remove the water pump bolts (usually 4-6 bolts) and take off the pump together with its gasket.
  12. Using counter-holders to hold the camshaft pulleys, remove the center pulley bolts (the loosening torque is high, so expect to use considerable force). Remove the camshaft pulleys. Note: the bolts are single-use and must be replaced with new ones.
  13. Clean the water pump mating surfaces on the cylinder block of any remains of the old gasket. Install the new pump with a new gasket (or sealant, per the manufacturer's instructions), and tighten the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern to 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb-ft).
  14. Install the new timing belt pulleys: tighten the idler pulley to 40 N·m (30 lb-ft), and for now tighten the tensioner pulley to 23 N·m (17 lb-ft) (final tightening comes after adjusting the belt tension).
  15. Install the camshaft pulleys on the camshafts, aligning the marks. Apply Loctite 243 threadlocker to the threads of the new pulley bolts. Install the new bolts while holding the pulleys with a counter-holder, and tighten to 50 N·m (37 lb-ft).
  16. Make sure the crankshaft and camshaft locking tools are still in place. Fit the new timing belt over the pulleys in this order: crankshaft, water pump, idler pulley, exhaust camshaft, intake camshaft, tensioner pulley. The rotation arrow on the belt must point clockwise.
  17. Adjust the belt tension: turn the tensioner pulley eccentric until the hydraulic tensioner rod protrudes 0.3-0.4 mm (check with a feeler gauge or caliper). Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to its final torque of 23 N·m (17 lb-ft).
  18. Remove the camshaft locking tool and the crankshaft locking tool.
  19. Turn the crankshaft by hand 4-6 full turns clockwise. Make sure the shafts turn freely without binding. Install the crankshaft and camshaft locking tools again; they must go in without force. If the tools do not go in, the timing marks have shifted, so repeat the belt installation.
  20. Remove the locking tools for good. Install the lower, middle, and upper timing belt covers and tighten the bolts.
  21. Reinstall the air duct, engine cover, fender liner, engine undercover, and the front right wheel.
  22. Fill the coolant into the expansion tank up to the MAX mark. Start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature with the expansion tank cap open to remove air pockets. Top up the coolant if necessary.
  23. Check for coolant leaks around the water pump. Listen to the engine at idle and at 2000-3000 rpm; there should be no unusual noises, knocking, or whistling from the timing belt.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • The CZEA engine is an interference engine: if the timing belt breaks, the pistons hit the valves, which leads to a major engine overhaul. Replacing the timing belt strictly on schedule is critical for engine life. Using the special locking tools is mandatory, because without them it is impossible to set the valve timing accurately. All camshaft pulley bolts are single-use, and reusing the old bolts can cause them to fail and seriously damage the engine. If you have no experience working on timing systems and do not have the special tools, take the car to a Volkswagen service center.
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