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Autopapyrus · Subaru Forester (1st generation, SF) 2.0 EJ20
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/subaru/forester/clutch-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Subaru Forester (1st generation, SF) 2.0 EJ20: Clutch Replacement

On the Forester SF, the clutch is replaced by lowering the 5-speed manual transmission together with the transfer unit (permanent all-wheel drive). This is the most labor-intensive part of the job: the transmission must be freed from the driveshaft, exhaust, crossmember and mounts. Replace the clutch as a set: pressure plate, disc and release bearing. Inspect the flywheel and resurface or replace it if necessary.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 6-10 hours (on a lift or over a pit, with a helper) Steps: 19

Parts

7
  • 🔩 Clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc ~225 mm, release bearing)
  • 🔩 Flywheel if needed
  • 🔩 Pilot bearing (input shaft) if needed
  • 🔩 Clutch slave cylinder if needed
  • 🔩 Transmission oil 75W-90 GL-5
  • 🔩 Rear crankshaft seal if worn
  • 🔩 Transmission input shaft seal if worn

Tools

10
  • lift or pit
  • transmission jack (or two regular jacks and a helper)
  • engine support or stand
  • socket set with extensions
  • torque wrench
  • clutch disc alignment tool
  • flywheel holder or locking screwdriver
  • syringe or container for brake fluid
  • container for transmission oil
  • copper grease for splines
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 9 more. See manuals →

Step by step

19 steps
  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the battery together with its tray. Remove the air intake and hoses that block access to the upper transmission bolts. Drain the transmission oil.
  2. Raise the vehicle and remove the underbody skid plate. Disconnect the connectors and wiring of the transmission sensors (speed sensor, reverse light switch, neutral switch) and note their locations.
  3. Remove the front section of the exhaust system (front pipe and catalytic converter, if they are in the way) and, depending on the version, the heat shields. Let the system cool down before working.
  4. Remove the driveshaft: mark the flange positions with paint, unbolt it from the transfer case and remove the center support bearing, then pull the shaft out toward the rear. Plug the rear output opening so oil does not leak out.
  5. Disconnect the shift cables or rods and the reaction rod link. Remove the starter (two bolts and the power wire).
  6. Detach the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission housing (two bolts) without opening the hydraulic line. Move it aside and tie it up. If the line does get opened, bleeding will be required afterward.
  7. Place an engine support or stand under the engine so it does not sag when the rear mount is removed. Position a transmission jack under the transmission.
  8. Remove the rear crossmember and the transmission mount, then all bolts securing the bellhousing to the engine (upper and lower; long extensions are needed). Note the locations of bolts of different lengths.
  9. Slide the transmission straight back along its axis, without letting the input shaft load the disc hub, and lower it. The unit is noticeably heavy, so have a helper support it.
  10. Mark the position of the pressure plate on the flywheel. Loosen the pressure plate bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern over several passes, then remove the pressure plate and disc.
  11. Inspect the flywheel for heat discoloration, cracks, deep grooves and runout. Light resurfacing on a machine is acceptable; otherwise replace it. If the flywheel bolts were removed, tighten them with a torque wrench (guideline 70-75 N·m (52-55 lb-ft), while holding the flywheel; check the exact value against the manufacturer's specifications).
  12. Check the rear crankshaft seal and the transmission input shaft seal for leaks and replace them if there is the slightest doubt while the assembly is apart. Inspect the pilot bearing and replace it if it is noisy or has play.
  13. Wipe the flywheel surface with degreaser. Install the disc (the side marked "Flywheel side" or with lettering faces the flywheel) and center it with the alignment tool.
  14. Install the pressure plate according to the marks and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2-3 passes (guideline 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft), check the exact value in the manufacturer's specifications), then remove the alignment tool.
  15. Apply a thin layer of heat-resistant grease to the input shaft splines, the release fork contact points and the bearing guide sleeve. Do not apply grease to the friction surfaces. Replace the release bearing.
  16. Install the transmission: align the input shaft with the disc splines by turning the shaft with the transmission in reverse gear or by slightly rotating the crankshaft. Do not let the transmission hang on the input shaft, and draw it in with the bellhousing bolts only after it is fully seated. Tighten the bellhousing bolts evenly in several passes (guideline 40-60 N·m (30-44 lb-ft) depending on the bolt, check exact values in the specifications).
  17. Reassemble in reverse order: transmission mounts and crossmember, slave cylinder, starter, shift rods, driveshaft according to the marks, exhaust, connectors. Fill the transmission with oil up to the level of the fill plug opening.
  18. Bleed the clutch hydraulics if the line was opened. Check the pedal travel and full disengagement, then start the engine and press the pedal several times, selecting gears with the vehicle stationary.
  19. For the first 300-500 km, avoid hard launches and clutch slipping so the disc can bed in.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • This job involves lifting the vehicle and removing a heavy assembly, so use reliable supports, not just a jack
  • If you have no experience removing a transmission, leave the job to a repair shop
  • The torque values above are approximate; for the flywheel bolts, pressure plate and bellhousing bolts, check the manufacturer's specifications for your engine
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