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Honda Civic 1.8 i-VTEC R18A2 (2006): Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

On the R18A2, change the oil and filter about every 10,000-15,000 km or once a year, and more often with city driving and frequent short trips. The fill capacity with a filter change is about 3.7 L (3.9 qt). The job is easier on a warm engine, because the oil drains better.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 30-40 minutes Steps: 14

Parts

3
№PartGenuine part no.Alternatives
01 Engine oil (API SM or higher, ACEA A3/B4)about 4 L (4.2 qt)
02 Honda oil filter for R18A engine (spin-on) 15400-RTA-004 Mann, Bosch, Filtron
15400-RTA-003
03 14 mm aluminum drain plug crush washer

Part numbers are from the manufacturer's original catalogue. Check them against your VIN before ordering.

Tools

7
  • 17 mm wrench for the drain plug
  • oil filter wrench (cup type or strap type)
  • socket set with ratchet and torque wrench
  • drain pan of 5 L (5.3 qt) or larger
  • funnel
  • rags
  • jack with jack stands or ramps
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 31 more. See manuals →

Step by step

14 steps
  1. Warm up the engine for 3-5 minutes and shut it off. Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake. If you lift the car, use sturdy jack stands only, not just a jack.
  2. Open the hood and unscrew the oil filler cap. This helps the oil drain better.
  3. If the car has a plastic engine undercover, remove it.
  4. Place the drain pan under the drain plug on the oil pan. Unscrew the plug with a 17 mm wrench and let the oil drain completely, about 5-10 minutes. The oil is hot, so protect your hands.
  5. Inspect the plug and its threads. Replace the crush washer with a new one. Tighten the plug with the new washer to about 39 N·m (29 lb-ft). Do not overtighten, because the threads in the aluminum oil pan strip easily.
  6. Place the drain pan under the oil filter. It is on the front of the engine, near the bottom of the block. Unscrew the old filter counterclockwise with the filter wrench. Residual oil will run out of the filter housing, so have rags ready.
  7. Wipe the mounting surface on the block. Make sure the old rubber gasket has not stayed behind on the engine.
  8. Coat the rubber seal of the new filter with a thin layer of fresh oil. Pre-filling the filter with oil is not necessary, especially with a side-mounted filter.
  9. Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten about another 3/4 turn. If you use a torque wrench, the torque is about 12 N·m (9 lb-ft); the exact value is printed on the filter body or its packaging. Do not overtighten the filter with a tool.
  10. Pour about 3.5 L (3.7 qt) of fresh oil into the filler neck, wait a minute, and check the level with the dipstick. Top up to the upper mark, but not above it. The total fill capacity with the filter is about 3.7 L (3.9 qt).
  11. Close the filler cap and run the engine for 30-60 seconds. The oil pressure warning light should go out within 1-2 seconds after startup. Check the drain plug and the filter for leaks.
  12. Shut off the engine, wait 3-5 minutes, and check the oil level on the dipstick again. Top up if necessary.
  13. Take the used oil and the old filter to a recycling point. Do not pour them down the drain or throw them in the trash.
  14. Reset the maintenance reminder if the service indicator is lit on the instrument cluster. The procedure depends on the trim level: it is usually done with the trip reset button on the instrument cluster with the ignition on.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not overtighten the drain plug or reuse the old washer, or you may get leaks or strip the oil pan threads
  • Do not fill the oil above the MAX mark, to avoid foaming and increased oil consumption
  • Work only on a car that is securely supported on jack stands, not on a jack alone