Autopapyrus · Lada Niva Travel 1.7 8V (2024)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/niva-travel/camshaft-and-hydraulic-lash-adjuster-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/niva-travel/camshaft-and-hydraulic-lash-adjuster-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
Lada Niva Travel 1.7 8V (2024): Camshaft and Hydraulic Lash Adjuster Replacement
The 1.7 8V engine uses a chain-driven timing system. The valves are operated by rocker arms with hydraulic lash adjusters, so no valve clearance adjustment is needed. To replace the camshaft and lash adjusters, you only need to remove the valve cover. The chain does not have to come off the engine: the camshaft sprocket is removed together with the chain. 2024 vehicles may also come with the new 1.8 engine, so first make sure you have the 1.7 8V under the hood.
Key figures
- Lash adjuster toolused to remove and install the lash adjusters (steps 12 and 14)24 mm socket
- Camshaft sprocket boltto remove and install the sprocket; do not forget to bend back and bend down the lock washer (steps 5 and 17)17 mm wrench
- Valve cover nutsremove the cover to access the shaft (step 2)8 pieces, 10 mm socket
- Turn the crankshaft after assemblycheck that the marks line up (step 19)2 full revolutions clockwise
Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.
Parts
7| № | Part |
|---|---|
| 01 | Camshaft, 1.7 8V engine |
| 02 | Hydraulic lash adjusters for rocker arms, set8 pcs |
| 03 | Oil feed rail seal ring kit |
| 04 | Valve cover gasket |
| 05 | Camshaft sprocket bolt lock washer |
| 06 | Hydraulic chain tensioner gasketif the tensioner is removed |
| 07 | Engine oil |
Tools
12- 10
- 13
- 17
- 21 and 24 mm sockets
- ratchet and extension
- torque wrench
- 17 mm wrench
- chisel or screwdriver (to bend back the lock washer)
- syringe for removing oil from the lash adjuster bores
- wire or zip tie to hold the chain
- cleaner
- clean rags
Step by step
21 steps- Disconnect the negative battery terminal and let the engine cool down. Detach the fuel rail with its lines, the throttle cable and the brake booster vacuum hose from the brackets on the cylinder head. Remove the hose from the receiver and disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the air intake hose. Work carefully: the fuel system is under pressure, so relieve the pressure beforehand.
- Remove the eight valve cover nuts with a 10 mm socket. Remove the brackets, clamping washers, cover and gasket.
- Check the lash adjusters before disassembly. Turn the shaft so the cam lobe's back faces the rocker arm, meaning the valve is closed. Insert a screwdriver between the edge of the housing and the rocker arm and press on the adjuster through the rocker arm. A good lash adjuster gives way only with noticeable effort. If it collapses easily, replace it.
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the mark on the camshaft sprocket (the hole on the side of the sprocket body) lines up with the tab on the camshaft bearing housing. At the same time, the mark on the crankshaft pulley must line up with the tab on the camshaft drive cover.
- Use a chisel to bend back the edge of the sprocket bolt lock washer. Remove the bolt together with its washers using a 17 mm wrench. While doing this, hold the shaft with a wrench on its hex or lock it by engaging a gear: do not let the chain jump off.
- Slacken the chain: remove the two nuts (10 mm socket) that secure the hydraulic tensioner to the cylinder head. Do not disconnect the oil feed line from the tensioner.
- Tie the chain to the sprocket with wire or a zip tie so it does not fall into the block. Remove the sprocket together with the chain from the shaft.
- Remove the middle bearing housing nut with a 13 mm socket. This nut also holds the lash adjuster oil feed rail. Slide the rail bushing off the stud and move the bent part of the rail away from the housing.
- Remove the remaining eight bearing housing nuts and take off the housing together with the camshaft.
- Remove the rocker arms and lay them out in installation order: the rocker arms must go back in their original positions.
- If you are replacing only the shaft: remove the two thrust flange nuts with a 10 mm wrench, take off the flange and pull the shaft out of the housing. Inspect the journals and the bearing seats in the housing: scoring and wear are reasons to replace the shaft and the housing.
- Replacing the lash adjusters: remove each one with a 24 mm socket. Remove the oil feed rail and slide the four bushings off the tube. Pry off the rubber rings with a screwdriver and replace them (one ring in each end bushing, two in the others).
- Flush the rail tube and the bushing passages with solvent and blow them out with compressed air. Lubricate the new rings with engine oil and carefully slide the bushings on without damaging the rings.
- Before installing the new lash adjusters, use a syringe to remove the oil from their bores in the cylinder head. Thread in the adjusters and tighten them to the torque specified by the manufacturer (approximately 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft); check the exact value against the service manual).
- Lubricate the shaft seat in the housing, the shaft journals and the working surfaces of the rocker arms with engine oil. Install the thrust flange (if removed), then place the rocker arms, shaft and housing on the cylinder head. Make sure the bushings on the leftmost studs enter the housing seats without binding.
- Tighten the bearing housing nuts in the sequence given in the service manual (from the center outward, in a crisscross pattern), evenly in 2-3 passes with a torque wrench. Torque is approximately 15-25 N·m (11-18 lb-ft); check the exact value against the service manual. Do not forget the middle nut with the oil feed rail and bushing.
- Align the camshaft sprocket mark with the mark on the bearing housing, and the crankshaft pulley mark with the tab on the drive cover. Fit the sprocket with the chain, install a new lock washer and the 17 mm bolt, tighten it to the manufacturer's specification, then bend the edge of the washer against a flat of the bolt.
- Hydraulic tensioner: when installed on the engine, it must be free of oil and its pin must not protrude from the housing. Tighten the two 10 mm tensioner mounting nuts (with a new gasket if it was removed).
- Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full revolutions and check that the marks line up again. If they do not, remove the tensioner and reinstall the chain using the marks.
- Install a new gasket and the valve cover, and tighten the eight 10 mm nuts evenly in a crisscross pattern with light torque (do not overtighten, to avoid damaging the gasket; approximately 5-8 N·m (3.7-5.9 lb-ft) per the service manual). Reinstall the hoses, throttle cable and fuel rail, then reconnect the battery.
- Add fresh oil if necessary and let the engine run without load. A brief ticking from the lash adjusters is possible at first while they fill with oil: it should go away within a few minutes. If the ticking persists, check the oil level and the installation of the adjusters.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Do not mix up the rocker arms, and do not remove the chain from the engine unless necessary: if the timing marks are lost, the chain will have to be reinstalled using the marks, otherwise the valves may hit the pistons
- The torque values above are approximate; check the exact values against the manufacturer's service manual
- If you have no experience working on a timing drive, leave the job to a repair shop