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Autopapyrus · Lada Niva Travel 1.7 8V (2021)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/lada/niva-travel/spark-plug-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Lada Niva Travel 1.7 8V (2021): Spark Plug Replacement

On the fuel-injected Niva, replace the spark plugs on a cold engine. The plugs sit in wells in the cylinder head, so blow out the wells before removing the plugs, or dirt will fall into the cylinder. Stripped threads are most often caused by overtightening, so use the torque value given below.

DifficultyEasy Time30-40 minutes Steps15

Key figures

  • Spark plug tightening torqueset this on the torque wrench in step 12; tighter risks stripping the threads in the head
    30-39 N·m (22-29 lb-ft)
  • New spark plug gapthe distance between the electrodes, check with a feeler gauge before installation (step 9)
    1.00-1.13 mm
  • Spark plug threaduse it to select the correct plugs at the parts store
    M14x1.25
  • Socket sizespark plug socket for removal (step 7)
    16 mm

Check these values against the manufacturer’s specification for your vehicle before you start.

Diagram: spark plug gap and which electrode to bend

Close-up of a new spark plug: working end on top++++1Side electrode: bend only this one2Gap: check with a flat feeler gauge3Center electrode: do not touch4Thread M14x1.255Hex for a 16 mm wrenchTap to enlarge
  1. 1Side electrode: a thin bent strip. Bend only this one to adjust the gap.
  2. 2Gap between the electrodes: 1.00-1.13 mm on a new plug, check with a flat feeler gauge before installing.
  3. 3Center electrode: a thin rod in a white insulator. Do not touch or bend it.
  4. 4Thread M14x1.25: use it to choose plugs. Hand-thread to the stop so you do not strip the aluminium head.
  5. 5Hex: fit a 16 mm plug wrench here, held straight on the axis.

Part

№PartAlternatives
01 Spark plugs, for fuel-injected 8-valve 1.7 engine (set of 4) AlternativesNGKBoschChampionDenso

Tools

6
  • 16 mm spark plug socket with a breaker bar or ratchet (extension)
  • torque wrench
  • flat feeler gauge for gap
  • compressed air or a brush
  • clean rags
  • flat screwdriver

Step by step

15 steps
  1. Park the car on level ground, set the parking brake, and make sure the engine is completely cool. Turn off the engine and remove the key from the ignition.
  2. Open the hood. For safety, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
  3. Locate the spark plug boots of the high-voltage wires (or the ignition coils/module, depending on the trim) on top of the engine. If a plastic decorative cover or hoses are in the way, carefully move them aside or remove them.
  4. Label the wires with their cylinder numbers (with a marker or tape) so you don't mix up the order during installation.
  5. Remove the wires one at a time, gripping the boot rather than the wire itself. Rock it and pull upward. If the boot is stuck, twist it slightly.
  6. Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air, or clean them with a brush and a dry rag, so that sand and dust don't fall into the cylinder.
  7. Unscrew the spark plug with the 16 mm socket. Keep the socket exactly on the plug's axis, without tilting. Remove the plugs one at a time so you don't mix up the cylinders.
  8. Inspect the old plug: a light brown deposit on the electrodes is normal; black soot, oil, or a white deposit is a reason to check mixture formation, valve stem seals, or the fuel.
  9. Check the gap on the new plug with a flat feeler gauge. For the fuel-injected engine, the factory gap is 1.00-1.13 mm. Bend only the side electrode; do not touch the center electrode.
  10. Lightly coat the threads with a thin layer of graphite or copper anti-seize only if the spark plug manufacturer allows it. Most modern coated plugs are installed on dry threads.
  11. Insert the plug into the well and thread it in by hand (or with the socket and a piece of rubber hose) until it seats, to avoid stripping the threads in the aluminum head.
  12. Tighten with a torque wrench. The tightening torque for an M14x1.25 spark plug, per factory data, is 30-39 N·m (22-29 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  13. Push the boot onto the plug until it clicks or seats fully, and tug on it to make sure it is secure. Repeat steps 7-13 for the remaining plugs.
  14. Reinstall the covers and hoses you removed, and reconnect the battery terminal.
  15. Start the engine and listen to how it runs: the idle should be smooth, with no misfiring and no hissing from leaks at the spark plug wells. If the Check Engine light comes on or the engine misfires, check that the boots are seated properly and that the wires are in the correct order.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not unscrew spark plugs on a hot engine: the aluminum head expands, and the threads are easily stripped
  • Do not remove the high-voltage wires while the engine is running, as this is dangerous and can damage the ignition coil
  • Follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule and the specific spark plug type for your engine; after the replacement, also check the recommended plug type against the parts catalog to be sure