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Autopapyrus · Honda Vezel (1st generation)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/honda/vezel/seasonal-tire-change-with-wheel-removal-and-balancing/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Honda Vezel (1st generation): Seasonal Tire Change with Wheel Removal and Balancing

The Vezel with the LEB engine (1.5 hybrid) has a 5x114.3 wheel bolt pattern, M12x1.5 stud thread, and a 19 mm lug nut size. The lug nut torque for Hondas in this class is 108 N·m (80 lb-ft), and the nuts must be tightened with a torque wrench. The wheels must be balanced before installation, and tire pressure must be checked afterward.

Difficulty: Easy Time: 1-1.5 hours DIY (4 wheels with balancing); about 40 minutes at a tire shop Steps: 16 Tools: jack (factory or hydraulic floor jack), two jack stands, 19 mm lug wrench or 19 mm socket, torque wrench (range up to 120 N·m (89 lb-ft)), chalk or marker, wire brush, thin grease for the hub centering ring surface, pump or compressor with a pressure gauge, wheel balancing machine (at the tire shop)

Parts

2
  • 🔩 consumables: wheel weights (clip-on or adhesive, 5-60 g), valve stems or valve stem repair kits (if needed). Factory tire sizes on the 1st-generation Vezel: 215/60 R16, 215/55 R17 or 225/50 R18
  • 🔩 the exact size is listed on the placard in the driver's door jamb

Step by step

16 steps
  1. Before you start, mark the position of each wheel (FL, FR, RL, RR) with chalk. If the tires are directional (a Rotation arrow on the sidewall) or asymmetric (marked Outside), note which side faces out. Directional tires must be mounted with the arrow pointing in the direction of forward travel.
  2. Park the car on a level, firm surface, shift to P and engage the electric parking brake, and place wheel chocks under the wheels that stay on the ground. The Vezel's parking brake is electric, and it does not get in the way of removing the rear wheels.
  3. With the car still on the ground, loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are going to remove by half a turn (19 mm wrench). Loosen the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
  4. Position the jack under the reinforced rocker panel at the designated jacking points (next to the marks on the plastic rocker trim). Do not place the jack under the plastic trim, the subframe, or exhaust components. For safety, place a jack stand under the body next to the jack.
  5. Raise the car so the wheel is just off the ground, fully remove the lug nuts, and take off the wheel. Hold the wheel so it does not fall off the studs.
  6. Inspect the brake discs and pads, the CV axle and ball joint boots, and the brake hoses and suspension arms. This is a convenient time to check pad wear.
  7. Clean the hub mounting surface and the centering ring with a brush, and apply a thin layer of grease to the centering ring (not to the stud threads or the lug nut cones). Clean the wheel's mounting surface.
  8. Take the removed wheels to a tire shop, or remove the tires yourself: take the tire off the rim, inspect the rim for bends and chips, replace the valve stem (threaded or rubber), clean the rim bead seat, mount the new tire, and inflate it.
  9. Balance the wheel on the machine. The permissible residual imbalance is up to 5 g. Attach clip-on or adhesive weights at the locations indicated by the machine. For alloy wheels, use adhesive weights so you do not damage the finish.
  10. Check the wheel runout on the machine, especially if the car has 17-18 inch alloy wheels and you have driven over potholes.
  11. Mount the wheel on the hub, aligning it with your marks. Start the nuts by hand (they should thread on freely, with no load on the threads), then snug them in a crisscross pattern without applying full force.
  12. Lower the car until the wheel touches the ground but the full load has not yet transferred to it, and tighten the nuts with a torque wrench in a crisscross pattern to 108 N·m (80 lb-ft), in two passes: first to about 60 N·m (44 lb-ft), then to the final torque.
  13. Lower the car completely, remove the jack, and repeat for the other three wheels.
  14. Set the tire pressure to the value on the placard on the driver's door (cold tires), and check the valves for leaks with soapy water.
  15. After 50-100 km of driving, check the lug nut torque with the torque wrench once more.
  16. Store the removed wheels upright or hung, labeling each one with its position. Store tires without rims lying flat, and complete wheel-and-tire sets stacked, preferably in covers, in a dry, cool place.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Never get under a car that is supported only by a jack; always use jack stands. Do not tighten the nuts with an impact wrench that has no torque limiter: overtightening warps the brake discs and strips the stud threads. If the wheels have damaged studs, cracked rims, or signs of severe corrosion, replace the part; do not try to "get through one more season." If you have no experience using a jack, leave the tire change to a tire shop.