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Autopapyrus · Honda Vezel LEB (2019)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/honda/vezel/i-dcd-dual-clutch-assembly-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Honda Vezel LEB (2019): I-DCD Dual Clutch Assembly Replacement

The 2019 Honda Vezel with the LEB hybrid engine uses a 7-speed automated i-DCD (intelligent Dual Clutch Drive) transmission with two dry clutches and a hydraulic actuator. Replacing the clutch assembly is a difficult job. It requires removing the transmission and using a special alignment tool. After installation, you must calibrate the clutch touch point (engagement point) with diagnostic equipment.

Difficulty: Hard Time: 8-12 hours Steps: 18 Tools: lift or inspection pit, socket and wrench set 10-19 mm, ratchet with extensions, torque wrench, special clutch alignment tool, transmission jack, flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, drain pan for DCT fluid (3 L (3.2 qt)), diagnostic scanner supporting Honda HDS or a compatible one (required for post-installation calibration)

Part

  • 🔩 Honda dual dry clutch assembly 22000-5P8-036 or 22000-5P8-016 (used on Vezel RU3/RU4 Hybrid; sold in some markets as the Honda HR-V). Aftermarket alternatives: only complete OE assemblies are available, with no other manufacturers (the system is unique). You will also need Honda 5P8 Fluid for the automated manual transmission, 2.5-3 L (2.6-3.2 qt)

Step by step

18 steps
  1. Raise the vehicle on a lift or secure it firmly over a pit. Disconnect the negative terminal of the 12-volt auxiliary battery (located in the engine compartment). Wait 3 minutes for the high-voltage system capacitors to discharge.
  2. Remove the engine and transmission undercover (4-6 bolts around the perimeter). Unscrew the i-DCD transmission drain plug (on the lower part of the transmission case) and drain the DCT fluid into the pan.
  3. Remove the front wheels. Loosen the hub nuts (reassembly torque 180-220 N·m (133-162 lb-ft); a helper to hold the brake or a hub holder is required). Disconnect the control arm ball joints from the steering knuckles (17 mm nut) and pull the driveshafts out of the hubs.
  4. Disconnect the solenoid valve and sensor connectors from the transmission case (3-4 connectors on the top and side of the transmission). Disconnect the shift cable from the lever on the transmission (release the retaining clip, then pull the cable out of the bracket).
  5. Unbolt the starter (2 bolts, 14 mm) and move it aside without disconnecting the wires. Remove the upper bolts that secure the transmission to the engine block (usually 3-4 bolts, 17 mm, accessed from above in the engine compartment).
  6. Position a transmission jack under the transmission case. Remove the bolts securing the rear transmission mount to the body and to the transmission itself (2-3 bolts, 14-17 mm). Remove the lower bolts securing the transmission to the engine (2-3 bolts, 17 mm, accessed from below).
  7. Carefully pull the transmission back (toward you) to free the input shaft from the flywheel. Lower the transmission on the jack and remove it from under the vehicle. Caution: the i-DCD transmission weighs about 50-60 kg, so work with a helper or use a lifting device.
  8. Install a flywheel holding tool (a special tool or a homemade plate with bolts in the flywheel holes). Remove the bolts securing the dual clutch assembly to the flywheel (6 bolts around the circumference, usually 12 mm). Loosen them in a crisscross pattern in several passes to release the load evenly.
  9. Remove the dual clutch assembly from the flywheel (it sits on guide bushings). Inspect the flywheel for wear, cracks, scoring and heat spots on the contact surface. Measure flywheel runout with a dial indicator (if available). Up to 0.05-0.08 mm is acceptable; if it is exceeded, resurface or replace the flywheel.
  10. Wipe the flywheel mounting surfaces with a clean rag. Install the new dual clutch assembly on the flywheel, aligning the guide bushings and bolt holes. Insert the alignment tool (a special mandrel or an old transmission input shaft) through the hubs of both clutch discs to center them relative to the flywheel.
  11. Tighten the bolts securing the clutch assembly to the flywheel in a crisscross pattern in several passes (first 10-15 N·m (7-11 lb-ft), then final torque 20-30 N·m (15-22 lb-ft); check the exact value in the Honda service documentation for this assembly). Remove the alignment tool.
  12. Inspect the release bearing in the transmission case (on the i-DCD this is a hydraulic actuator with a bearing built into the transmission housing; it is not replaced separately, only as part of the actuator if it is faulty). Check the condition of the transmission input shaft seal and replace it if there are signs of leakage.
  13. Raise the transmission on the jack and align the input shaft with the hole in the clutch hub (alignment must be exact). Carefully move the transmission toward the engine without applying excessive force (if the shaft does not enter, recheck the alignment). Tighten the lower transmission mounting bolts (torque 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft); this is a range, so check the exact value in the documentation).
  14. Install the rear transmission mount and tighten the bolts (torque 30-40 N·m (22-30 lb-ft)). Tighten the upper bolts securing the transmission to the engine (torque 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft)). Install the starter (torque 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft)). Reconnect the sensor and valve connectors and the shift cable.
  15. Insert the driveshafts into the hubs and the transmission. Attach the ball joints to the steering knuckles (nut torque 40-50 N·m (30-37 lb-ft), plus a cotter pin or use a self-locking nut). Install the wheels and tighten the hub nuts (torque 180-220 N·m (133-162 lb-ft)).
  16. Fill the transmission with fresh Honda 5P8 Fluid through the fill hole (usually the upper plug on the transmission case, accessed from the engine compartment). Capacity is 2.5-3 L (2.6-3.2 qt). Check the level by filling to the lower edge of the check hole, or to the marks on the dipstick if one is fitted. Tighten the fill plug.
  17. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Connect a diagnostic scanner supporting Honda HDS or a compatible one. Perform the i-DCD clutch touch point adaptation (learning) procedure. This step is mandatory. Without it, the transmission will not shift correctly or the vehicle will not move. The procedure includes a series of scanner commands and test gear engagement cycles with the engine running.
  18. After calibration, start the engine and check for DCT fluid leaks. Take a test drive and make sure shifts are smooth, with no jerking, clutch slip or unusual noises. If transmission faults appear (Check Engine light, code P2857 or other i-DCD codes), repeat the calibration or verify that everything was installed correctly.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Replacing the i-DCD clutch requires calibration with Honda HDS diagnostic equipment or a compatible scanner. Without this step, the transmission will not work. Using non-OE clutch assemblies or bearings (especially cheap aftermarket copies) often makes calibration impossible and leaves the vehicle inoperable. This job is best done at a repair shop that has experience with Honda hybrids and access to the diagnostic equipment. If you have no experience with hybrid systems and automated manual transmissions, contact a professional.
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