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Autopapyrus · SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/kyron/front-brake-pad-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010): Front Brake Pad Replacement

The SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi has front disc brakes with a floating caliper. Replace the pads every 30,000-40,000 km or when the remaining thickness is less than 3 mm. The procedure is standard and requires pushing the piston back into the caliper.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 1-1.5 hours Steps: 28 Tools: jack, lug wrench, 17/19 mm wrenches, rubber mallet, flat-head screwdriver, piston compressor tool or C-clamp, brake cleaner (aerosol), torque wrench, copper grease for the guide pins

Part

  • 🔩 Front brake pads (OE 4813009200 or aftermarket equivalents Sangsin SA127, Kashiyama D3118, TRW GDB3404). DOT 4 brake fluid (top off if needed; equivalents: Ate SL.6, Brembo Premium DOT 4)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

28 steps · 5 phases
Phase 1 PREPARATION 5 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on a level, solid surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  2. Loosen the lug nuts/bolts on the front wheel (do not remove them completely).
  3. Raise the front of the vehicle with the jack and support it on a jack stand.
  4. Remove the front wheel (torque for the wheel bolts on reassembly: 90-110 N·m (66-81 lb-ft)).
  5. Open the hood and find the brake fluid reservoir. Unscrew the cap 1-2 turns (fluid will be displaced when you push the piston back, so the reservoir needs to vent air).
Phase 2 REMOVING THE OLD PADS 6 steps
  1. Inspect the caliper. It is held by two guide pin bolts at the rear (the head is 17 or 19 mm depending on the model year; try the 17 mm first).
  2. Remove the lower caliper guide pin bolt (torque on reinstallation: 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft); check the exact value in the manufacturer's service manual).
  3. Swing the caliper upward around the upper guide pin bolt (like a hinge) and secure it to the suspension spring with wire so it does not hang from the brake hose.
  4. Remove the old pads from the caliper bracket (inner and outer).
  5. Inspect the brake rotor. If its thickness is less than 22 mm or it has deep grooves (more than 0.5 mm), replace the rotor (check the minimum thickness in the manual; it is usually 20-22 mm).
  6. Remove the anti-squeal shims (clips) from the caliper bracket and clean the seating areas with brake cleaner.
Phase 3 PREPARING THE CALIPER AND INSTALLING THE NEW PADS 6 steps
  1. Push the caliper piston back into the cylinder with a piston compressor or C-clamp. Place an old pad against the piston and compress slowly. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir so it does not overflow, and draw off any excess with a syringe.
  2. Check the condition of the piston dust boot. If it is torn, the caliper needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
  3. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease (copper or silicone caliper grease) to the guide pins and check that they move freely. The pin should slide freely in its rubber boot.
  4. Reinstall the anti-squeal shims in the bracket (make sure they sit tightly in the slots).
  5. Insert the new pads into the bracket, the inner pad (piston side) first, then the outer one. The pads should slide freely into the shim slots.
  6. Apply a thin layer of copper grease to the backs of the pads (where they contact the piston and the caliper bracket). This prevents squealing.
Phase 4 REASSEMBLY 5 steps
  1. Lower the caliper down over the pads and align the hole for the lower guide pin bolt.
  2. Tighten the lower guide pin bolt to 25-35 N·m (18-26 lb-ft) (check the manual for the exact value).
  3. Repeat the procedure for the other front wheel (steps 2-19).
  4. Install the wheels and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 90-110 N·m (66-81 lb-ft) (verify in the manual).
  5. Lower the vehicle off the jack.
Phase 5 PEDAL PUMP-UP AND CHECK 6 steps
  1. Tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap securely.
  2. Sit in the car WITHOUT starting the engine and press the brake pedal firmly to the floor several times (5-10 times). The pistons will move up to the pads and the pedal will become firm.
  3. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top off to the MAX mark if needed (DOT 4 only; do not mix with DOT 3 or DOT 5.1 unless necessary).
  4. Start the engine and check the brake pedal. It should feel firm, with medium travel. If the pedal is soft or sinks to the floor, bleed the brake system (air may have gotten in).
  5. Take a test drive at low speed (up to 20 km/h) and brake gently several times to bed in the new pads.
  6. For the first 200-300 km, avoid hard braking while the pads bed in to the rotor.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Do not use pads from unknown manufacturers. Poor-quality friction material leads to longer stopping distances. If the pedal stays soft after pumping it up, or the brake warning light comes on, take the vehicle to a repair shop for diagnosis. There may be a fluid leak or air in the system.
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