Autopapyrus · SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/kyron/battery-replacement/
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/kyron/battery-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.
SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010): Battery Replacement
On a 2010 SsangYong Kyron with the 2.0 XDi diesel, the battery is in the engine bay on the left (driver's side). The standard capacity is 70-80 Ah, with reverse polarity (negative on the right when you look at the terminals from the hood side). The job is simple. The main thing is to disconnect and reconnect the terminals in the right order.
Part
- 🔩 12V battery, 70-80 Ah, cold cranking current 640-750 A, Asian size with reverse polarity (negative on the right). Alternatives: Bosch S4 024 (60 Ah, 540 A), Varta Blue Dynamic D59 (60 Ah, 540 A), Medalist 75D23L (65 Ah, 580 A), Solite 95D26L (80 Ah, 650 A). Check the polarity and size against your old battery
There's a full repair manual for this car
Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online).
See manuals →
Step by step
15 steps- Turn off the engine, remove the key from the ignition, and close all doors and windows (so the auto-locking doesn't trigger when the battery is disconnected).
- Open the hood and find the battery in the front left corner of the engine bay (with or without a plastic cover, depending on the trim level).
- Loosen the nut on the negative («–») terminal (black cable, usually marked «–» or with the smaller diameter) with a 10 mm wrench (or 13 mm). Remove the terminal from the battery post and move it aside so it can't touch the post.
- Loosen the nut on the positive («+») terminal (red cable, «+»), remove the terminal from the post, and move it aside.
- Remove the hold-down bracket (the battery clamp at the top or bottom, usually one or two bolts that take a 13 mm socket), then take off the bracket.
- Carefully lift the old battery out of its tray (it weighs 15-20 kg, so hold it by the handle or by the case with both hands).
- Inspect the battery tray. If there are traces of electrolyte or corrosion, wipe it with a baking soda solution (1 tablespoon per cup of water), then dry it with a clean rag.
- Inspect the cable terminals. If there is white buildup (lead sulfate), clean them with fine sandpaper or a brass brush until they are shiny.
- Place the new battery in the tray and make sure the polarity matches (positive on the right and negative on the left, or the other way around, as on your old battery).
- Install the hold-down bracket and tighten the bolts moderately (don't overtighten, because the battery case plastic can crack).
- Put the terminal on the positive («+») post and tighten the nut with a 10 mm (or 13 mm) wrench until the contact is secure (tightening torque 5-7 N·m (3.7-5.2 lb-ft). Tighten firmly, but don't overdo it).
- Put the terminal on the negative («–») post and tighten the nut with the same force.
- Make sure the terminals don't turn on the posts when you gently wiggle them.
- Close the hood, insert the key in the ignition, and turn the ignition on (without starting the engine). All the warning lights on the instrument cluster should come on.
- Start the engine. It should start confidently, without the starter cranking for a long time.
Common mistakes and warnings
- Always disconnect the negative terminal first and reconnect it last. This prevents a short circuit if your wrench accidentally touches the body. Do not smoke or use open flames near the battery, because the hydrogen gas from the cells is explosive. After the replacement you may need to clear fault codes and let the throttle body readapt (this usually happens automatically after 10-15 minutes of idling). If the radio or the on-board computer asks for a code, have the unlock code ready in advance (it is in the service booklet or on the card that came with the car).