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Autopapyrus · SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/ssangyong/kyron/front-shock-absorber-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

SsangYong Kyron 2.0 XDi (2010): Front Shock Absorber Replacement

The front shock absorbers on the Kyron can be replaced either as a complete strut assembly or separately (which requires a spring compressor). This guide covers replacing the complete strut assembly (easier and safer). The service life of the original shock absorbers is 60,000-100,000 km (37,000-62,000 mi). Work on one side at a time.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-3 hours Steps: 32 Tools: jack, jack stands, socket set 12/14/17/19/22 mm, box-end wrenches 17/19/22 mm, 22 mm socket, pry bar, torque wrench, WD-40, wire brush

Part

  • 🔩 front shock absorbers, left and right (OE 4530109001 — verify by VIN, aftermarket equivalents: Sachs 313 527, Monroe E1159, KYB 341472), strut top mount bearings (OE 4142109000 — replacement recommended at mileage over 80,000 km (50,000 mi), equivalent: CTR CVKD-23), shock rod dust boots (OE 4142209000, equivalent: Febest NSHB-001), self-locking M14 nuts for the upper mount — 2 pcs (replacement mandatory)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes AutoFix (online). See manuals →

Step by step

32 steps · 5 phases
Phase 1 PREPARATION AND INSPECTION 4 steps
  1. Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the parking brake, and select 1st gear (or P for an automatic transmission).
  2. Loosen the front left wheel bolts half a turn (do not remove them completely).
  3. Raise the front left side with a jack at the frame rail (the jacking point is the reinforced area in front of the rocker panel) and place a jack stand under the frame.
  4. Remove the wheel and inspect the shock absorber for oil leaks and the condition of the rod dust boot.
Phase 2 FRONT STRUT REMOVAL 10 steps
  1. Open the hood and locate the upper strut mount: three 14 mm nuts under a plastic cover in the engine bay (above the wheel arch).
  2. Remove the plastic protective cover (pry it off with a screwdriver, or remove one screw, depending on trim level).
  3. Treat the three upper nuts and the shock rod with WD-40 and wait 5 minutes.
  4. Hold the shock rod with a 6-8 mm wrench (hex socket in the center of the rod) and loosen the central 22 mm nut, but not all the way: leave 2-3 turns of thread engaged.
  5. Remove the three outer 14 mm nuts that secure the top mount bearing to the body strut tower.
  6. Under the vehicle, locate the lower strut mount to the steering knuckle: two 19 mm bolts with nuts.
  7. Treat the lower bolts with WD-40, then remove the nuts with a 19 mm wrench while holding the bolt from the other side.
  8. Tap the bolts out of the knuckle with light hammer blows (they may be seized, so apply penetrating oil again).
  9. While supporting the strut by hand, fully remove the central upper 22 mm nut.
  10. Lower the complete strut assembly out through the wheel arch (you may need to move the brake hose aside; do not disconnect it).
Phase 3 INSTALLING THE NEW STRUT 11 steps
  1. Inspect the upper and lower mounting surfaces and clean off rust and dirt with a wire brush.
  2. Check the new strut: the rod should move smoothly without sticking, the dust boot should be intact, and the top mount bearing should turn freely.
  3. Install the new strut from below through the wheel arch and insert the rod into the upper hole in the strut tower.
  4. Thread the central 22 mm nut onto the rod by hand (2-3 turns) to hold the strut in place.
  5. Align the holes in the top mount bearing with the three studs/holes in the strut tower.
  6. Thread on the three outer 14 mm nuts and tighten them in a crisscross pattern to 20-25 N·m (15-18 lb-ft) (verify in the service manual; the range is 18-30 N·m (13-22 lb-ft)).
  7. While holding the rod with the hex wrench, tighten the central nut to 60-80 N·m (44-59 lb-ft) (the exact value per the SsangYong manual is 70-90 N·m (52-66 lb-ft); use a torque wrench).
  8. Under the vehicle, align the strut's lower mounting tabs with the holes in the steering knuckle.
  9. Insert the two lower mounting bolts and thread on the 19 mm nuts by hand.
  10. Tighten the lower nuts to 90-110 N·m (66-81 lb-ft) (verify the exact value in the service manual; this torque is critical for suspension geometry).
  11. Install the wheel and thread on the bolts by hand.
Phase 4 REPEAT ON THE RIGHT SIDE 2 steps
  1. Lower the left side off the jack stand and tighten the wheel bolts in a crisscross pattern to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft).
  2. Repeat steps 2-25 for the right front strut.
Phase 5 CHECKING AND FINISHING UP 5 steps
  1. Lower the vehicle onto all four wheels and perform the final tightening of all wheel bolts to 100-120 N·m (74-89 lb-ft).
  2. Install the plastic protective covers on the upper strut mounts in the engine bay.
  3. Bounce the suspension by pushing down on each corner of the body 5-7 times; the struts should damp the oscillation within 1-2 cycles without any knocking.
  4. Drive 10-15 km (6-9 mi) and listen to the suspension; there should be no metallic knocks or squeaks.
  5. After 50-100 km (30-60 mi) of driving, be sure to have a wheel alignment done on an alignment rack, because replacing the struts throws off the wheel alignment angles.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Always replace shock absorbers in pairs (both front ones at the same time); different stiffness between the left and right sides causes the vehicle to pull during braking. Use a torque wrench for both the upper and lower mounts: under-tightening causes knocking, and over-tightening strips the threads or deforms the top mount bearing. If you decide to replace only the shock absorber without the complete strut (which requires disassembling the spring), you must use spring compressors; working without them is extremely dangerous and can be fatal. A wheel alignment is mandatory after replacing the struts, otherwise the tires will wear out within 5,000-10,000 km (3,000-6,000 mi).
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