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Autopapyrus · Toyota Camry 2.5 A25A-FKS (2018)
https://autopapyrus.com/guides/toyota/camry/exhaust-manifold-gasket-replacement/
Compiled automatically from service literature and owner experience. Specs are for the typical configuration — check them against your exact car before you start.

Toyota Camry 2.5 A25A-FKS (2018): Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement

The exhaust manifold gasket on the A25A-FKS needs to be replaced when exhaust gases leak (a characteristic ticking sound on a cold engine). The manifold is accessed from the top of the engine bay. You will need to remove the upper heat shield and disconnect the oxygen sensor.

Difficulty: Medium Time: 2-3 hours Steps: 13 Tools: socket set (10, 12, 14 mm), ratchet, extensions, oxygen sensor socket (22 mm), torque wrench, penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster), gasket scraper, shop rags

Part

  • 🔩 Toyota 17173-F0010 (aftermarket equivalents: Felpro MS 96475, Victor Reinz 71-40277-00)
There's a full repair manual for this car Every system, wiring diagrams and torque specs — not just this job. Haynes and 5 more. See manuals →

Step by step

13 steps
  1. Warm up the engine to a moderate temperature (2-5 minutes after a cold start), then shut it off. A warm manifold releases its fasteners more easily because of thermal expansion, but it is not yet scorching hot.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Unplug the oxygen sensor connector (sensor No. 1, upstream of the catalytic converter, located on the manifold).
  3. Remove the upper heat shield by unscrewing the five 10 mm bolts around its perimeter. If the bolts are seized, apply penetrating oil, wait 10-15 minutes, then loosen them gradually: a quarter turn counterclockwise, then back, repeating until they come out. Forcing rusty bolts out abruptly causes them to snap off in the threads.
  4. Remove the oxygen sensor with a 22 mm wrench (counterclockwise). Wear gloves, since the sensor body is hot.
  5. Remove the nuts securing the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head (usually 8 nuts, 12-14 mm, arranged around the perimeter). Work in sequence from the outer edges toward the center.
  6. Remove the manifold together with the old gasket. If the manifold is stuck to the cylinder head, carefully tap its end with a rubber mallet, taking care not to damage the mating surface.
  7. Use a scraper to remove the remains of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and manifold. Wipe the surfaces with a clean rag and degrease them (brake cleaner works). Check the manifold flatness with a metal straightedge. If it is warped by more than 0.2 mm, replace the manifold or have it resurfaced.
  8. Install the new gasket onto the cylinder head studs. The gasket may be directional (marked UP or with an arrow), so follow the correct orientation.
  9. Install the manifold onto the studs and thread the nuts on by hand.
  10. Tighten the nuts with a torque wrench in two passes: the first pass at 15 N·m (11 lb-ft) (from the center outward in a crisscross pattern), the second pass at 35 N·m (26 lb-ft) (same pattern). Tightening order: start with the center nuts, then work in a spiral toward the outer edges.
  11. Install the oxygen sensor and tighten it to 40-45 N·m (30-33 lb-ft). Reconnect the sensor connector.
  12. Install the upper heat shield and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb-ft).
  13. Reconnect the battery terminal. Start the engine, bring it up to operating temperature, and listen to the manifold for exhaust leaks (hissing, ticking). If you detect a leak, shut off the engine and recheck the nut torque after the engine has cooled.

Common mistakes and warnings

  • Before starting work, apply penetrating oil to the threaded connections, since the heat shield bolts and manifold studs are prone to corrosion. A broken stud in the cylinder head will require drilling it out and repairing the threads. Wear gloves: exhaust system components stay hot for up to 30 minutes after the engine is shut off.